Gingerbread and a Severed Crow’s Head

We gathered up our suitcases and hopped the train to our second stop: Nuremberg. It was not a particularly long ride, and we mostly sat around eating, reading or listening to music. The main station in Nuremberg was just outside the old city wall, where the Christmas Market would be set up.

Old city wall as seen from the train station.

Old city wall as seen from the train station.

We caught a cab to our hotel from the station, only to discover we were staying about three blocks away, which was a little embarrassing since the driver told took two minutes to get us there. The hotel itself was one of the nicer ones we stayed in. Heck, the room I shared with my sisters had a bunk-bed (which they dibbed as soon as they saw it).

Since we arrived in the city during the afternoon, we decided to scope out the Christmas Market a bit that day to give us an idea for where things were when we explored the city the next day. The Nuremberg Christmas Market is the one of the biggest and, according to German media, the best. We headed behind the city wall to see for ourselves.

Behind the wall

Behind the wall

The place was definitely big, stretching throughout a lot of city blocks and divided into smaller markets. Aside from various surrounding shops, the area we found ourselves in held three massive churches and an old building that has once served as a prison.



Food Item That I Tried: Nuremberg Gingerbread. There are claims that Nuremberg has some of the best gingerbread in the world, and I can get behind this fact. All the gingerbread we saw at the Christmas Markets held the claim of coming right from Nuremberg. Unlike the gingerbread I’m used to, the stuff in Germany is soft and chewy and so delicious. We ended up buying several packs of it from a nearby store that were coated in chocolate and sprinkles. It was sold at various booths as well, in special containers, gluten-free and vegan, or coated in flavoured icing.

I also tried a Baumkuchen (Tree Cake/ Chimney Cake). It was flaky, warm, and just sweet enough. It was a treat to watch it get made, with the dough wrapped around a cylinder and rolled in sugar before being placed in a rotisserie-like oven.

Once it hit evening, the market got extremely crowded. We ended up heading back to the hotel once we’d walked off enough of our dinner. We’d come back the next day, when there were fewer people.


The hotel we stayed at offered a buffet breakfast—German style, of course. I ended up making sandwiches with some of the stuff I got from the little buffet area. We returned to the Market afterwards. It was a Friday afternoon, so we had a lot of free reign to move around, and we decided to get a closer look at the churches we had seen the night before.


While I don’t think we saw any church as grand as the one in Fulda, we did see something interesting at one in Nuremberg. A severed crow’s head, with no eyes, left on one of the church’s protruding corners.

(I would show you the picture I took, but I know some people will get uncomfortable or disturbed. I thought it might be a good thing to put in a story myself, but not everyone thinks like me.)

It was after the crow’s head church that my youngest sister decided she desperately wanted cake. So, we spend a good period of time moving further and further from the Christmas Market in pursuit of a café where five of us could fit.

View from outside the cafe.

View from outside the cafe.

We did some shopping in the area afterwards, slowly making our way back to the Market. Even as the evening came and the crowds rolled back in, we took our time wandering about. I tried the Eggnog—again—and found that a different location did not change my opinion of it. Once we’d had our fill of the crowd, we made our way back to the hotel to rest up for our trip the next day.

Next week: Munich and the Rally Grounds.

Bonus: My sister, myself, and our new best friend.


Accordion Santa and his doggie.


Categories: This is my life, travel | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

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